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Home  >  Hiking   >  Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior
Central Utah

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

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Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

The South Ridge of Mount Superior is a well-known Class 5 scramble and a true gem for adventurous hikers in the Wasatch Mountains. While you can reach the summit via a more traditional hiking trail, this technical ridge route offers a more exhilarating and challenging ascent for experienced climbers.

Contents hide
1 Share the love!
2 Scrambling the South Ridge of Mount Superior: A Wasatch Classic
2.1 Experience and Gear Recommendations
3 Directions
4 Trail Info
5 Starting the Scramble
6 First Scramble Section
7 Reality Check: It’s Harder Than It Looks
8 Unexpected Sights on the Ridge
9 Mental Challenge on the Ridge
10 Final Push to the Summit
11 Summit Stats
12 Descent and Final Thoughts
13 Trail Map
14 Nearby Hike
15 Save me on Pinterest!
15.1 Share the love!

Scrambling the South Ridge of Mount Superior: A Wasatch Classic

Often called a “Wasatch Classic”, the South Ridge features dramatic exposure, breathtaking views, and exciting scrambling over steep, rocky terrain. If it’s your first time attempting this route, it’s highly recommended to go with someone familiar with the path who can offer guidance and coaching through the more exposed and difficult sections.

Experience and Gear Recommendations

Although I consider myself an experienced peak-bagger and have completed other difficult ridge scrambles, I personally felt more confident using a rope and harness on this route. The ridge includes multiple Class 5.4 to 5.5 sections with significant exposure—enough to give even seasoned climbers pause.

While some skilled climbers tackle the South Ridge without protection, I found that the added security of gear helped manage the psychological challenge of the exposure. Note that there is no established trail—you simply aim straight up the ridge and pick your line carefully.

Directions

To access the trailhead, drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon for approximately 8 miles. Park at the Our Lady of the Snows Center, located on your left. Here is a driving map.

 

Trail Info

Distance: 5 miles (loop)

Elevation gain: 2,550 ft

Time: 4-8 hours

Dog friendly? No, dogs are not allowed in LCC

Kid friendly? No

Fees/Permits? None.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Start by parking at Our Lady of the Snows Center, then walk down the LCC paved road, until you each the TH.

Ok I admit I was nervous about this ridge. I’ve done a lot of hikes and over 100 peaks, but for some reason, this one spooked me. It just looked SO steep! Was I going to be able to do this??

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

The “trail” begins at:

GPS: 40.5858944,-111.6537787

This is about 0.2 miles past the last Snowbird entrance on the left (North) side of the road. There is a large pull-out and you’ll see the trail begin here.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Starting the Scramble

Follow the faint “trail” as it cuts through a slope of loose shale rock. It’s easy to get off route here, and several worn paths branch off in different directions.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

I think it’s absolutely essential to go with someone who knows this route. Having an experienced partner will help you stay on track and avoid sketchy terrain.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

First Scramble Section

After about 15 minutes of hiking up the shale, we reached our first scrambling section.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

The higher you climb, the better the views get. Be sure to stop and take it all in!

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Looking back, you get a great view of Snowbird Resort below.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Reality Check: It’s Harder Than It Looks

I had seen many hikers post about scrambling the South Ridge without a rope—so I assumed I could do the same. That wasn’t the case for me. This is a trad climb – you will need a few pieces of gear plus at least a 50 ft rope.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

I felt nervous and frustrated. Even though I bag peaks nearly every weekend, I needed the extra security of a rope and harness to feel safe. It was humbling.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Unexpected Sights on the Ridge

Along the way, we passed pipes and platforms sticking out of the ridge—part of avalanche control systems used in winter.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

At one point, we looked down Suicide Chute, a popular backcountry skiing line.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Seeing a memorial plaque here was somber—reminding us how dangerous this route can be.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Mental Challenge on the Ridge

As more experienced climbers flew past us, I had to come to terms with my own pace and limits. Safety mattered more than pride.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

The exposure was intense, and I found myself battling negative self-talk. I knew my partner Ian was getting frustrated, but I was doing my best to push through.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

We took lots of breaks—the ridge narrowed to just 3 feet across at times.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Eventually, I started to enjoy the scenery again. The sunset views of American Fork Twin Peaksgave me a boost of energy.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Final Push to the Summit

The rock color shifted from light brown to dark brown—signaling we were almost there. The hardest climbing was behind us.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

I unroped and took a moment to breathe on a flat section. Even though I was exhausted, the relief was overwhelming.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Finally, we could see the summit of Mt. Superior!

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Summit Stats

It took me 4.5 hours to reach the summit via the South Ridge. For perspective, the Fastest Known Time (FKT) is just 59 minutes, held by local athlete Chris Cawley.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

From the top, we had amazing views of Lake Blanche Basin and Cardiac Ridge.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Descent and Final Thoughts

We only stayed at the summit for about five minutes—it was already 8 PM, and we needed to descend before dark. As we looked back at the South Ridge, I couldn’t believe we had just climbed it. It didn’t look as intimidating from this angle.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

We made our way down the actual hiking trail on the west side.

Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

Our 5-mile loop took 7 hours total. It wasn’t our fastest day, but that’s just how it goes sometimes. I’m proud I finished—and honestly, I probably won’t do it again. It was physically and mentally draining, but unforgettable.

 

Trail Map

My track via Gaia GPS – the best tracking app! Get your app here for a discount.

 

Nearby Hike

American Fork Twin Peaks

Hiking American Fork Twin Peaks

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Climbing the South Ridge of Mt.Superior

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Girl On A Hike
August 21, 2019
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